Thevenet Macon Pierreclos 2008

Jean-ClaudeThevenet is a third generation "vigneron" whose winery is located in the heart of the Maconnais in the village of Pierreclos. His grandfather was the winemaker for the Chateau de Pierreclos and his father developed a business as a supplier of rootstock. After some time acquiring vineyards, in 1971 when Jean-Claude reached the age of 17, they began to bottle their wine. The Thevenets now own 25 hectares of vineyards in the adjoining communes of Pierreclos, Prisse, and Rilly Lamartine.

The vineyards, planted mostly to Chardonnay, are spread among two major appellations: St. Veran and Macon-Villages (Pierreclos). The grapes for the Macon Pierreclos come from two select parcels: Margot and Chavigne. Their production is rather small as they produce a mere 2,000 cases of the Pierreclos annually. They keep to more traditional methods.  All grapes are picked by hand. The whites are vinified at controlled, low temperatures. After the alcoholic fermentation the wine is racked to eliminate the gross lees. All wines complete malolactic fermentation (not grotesque mind you!). The wines are left on the lees until bottling. There is a light fining and minor filtration with "kisselguhr" and the whites never see an oak barrel. 

And so, what does one take away from this well made, well situated little wine? It is racy, fresh, minerally and citrusy.  The nose is full of lemons and stones and the palate is deceptively deep, but fresh and bright. Nothing weighed down, nothing tropical here.  Style and finesse. 

Thevenet Macon Pierreclos   $21 a bottle

meet the grape

Chardonnay
Some days it's right up there with seeming as despicable as merlot, but then we stop and reconsider where our chardonnay hails from and often times we're brought back from the edge. Just like merlot - it has its redeeming qualities and its redeeming terriors. Let's not forget that most of the right bank of bordeaux is planted to merlot. And so, with this, we cannot forget that some of the greatest soils in the world (ah, hem that would be Burgundy) are planted to chardonnay.

The grape is often over oaked, bathed in wood chips (thanks to our foes at Gallo and KJ) and taken into a strangely grotesque malolactic fermentation. But! There are many who know it as the divine Chablis. An unoaked, dry, minerally and citrus drink from France that makes dinner better just by being on the table. A food friendly grape, chardonnay is grown in almost every wine growing region in the world, but takes its best name and arguably its best form when we call it Champagne (Blanc de Blanc of course).